Thursday March 1, 2018
I’ve spent quite a bit of time in Buenos Aires over the years, and don’t feel the need to revisit tourist traps. It’s also a beautiful late summer’s day, with a temperature around 30 degrees and a cooling breeze in the shade. I decide it’s another day to spend outdoors in the local parks, and head towards the Rosedahl, a formal rose garden in Palermo. Along the way I discover the Parque de las Ciencias (Science Park), a relatively new urban park in Palermo at the rear of the new-looking Centre for Innovation, Technology and Science.
I end up taking a scenic walk in the opposite direction initially, walking past the Mosque, Hippodrome (race course), city polo field and the Tattersalls Club building.
Going in the opposite direction usually pays off with something unexpected, and police stopping traffic is usually a good sign. I am expecting the presidential cavalcade to come down Avenida de la Libertador, but instead it is a calvalry parade. I have no idea what it is in aid of, but it is enough to stop the traffic for a couple of minutes as they turn into the Avenida. Other than a few greys at the top of the parade, the horses are all a uniform bay, with I’m assuming army soldiers walking alongside at various intervals. There is also a mounted brass band in the middle of the parade, playing slightly off-key as they manage their instruments and their horses. The horses are not bothered by either the music or the passing traffic, but I notice that the parade is followed by an ambulance for the riders, and a horse float for spooked or injured equines. The parade turns down a smaller street and are lost from view.
Walking around the back of the Hippodrome brings me to the Parque de 3 Febrero, which leads into the Rosedahl. It is a popular spot usually, with shady walkways and patches of green for picnickers. It is relatively quiet in the middle of the day, just a few people resting on the shady benches, and a couple of kids playing under the sprinklers.
A short walk away is the Japanese Garden, one of my favourite places in Buenos Aires. It is one of the largest Japanese garden outside of Japan, and is staffed by Japanese-Portenos (locals of Buenos Aires), who speak Japanese, Spanish and a little English. The entry fee of 120 pesos is well worth it for this oasis of greenery, with the ornamental lake crossed by red bridges. They breed their own koi in pens at the top of the lake, and there are two workmen waist deep in the lake weeding the lily pads. There are a couple of food and drink venues selling snacks, drinks and icecreams, and the usual spotless Japanese toilets.
An late lunch/early dinner is called for after a 15km walk, and my favourite location is in the outdoor seating at the Croque Madame café in front of the Musee des Artes Decoratifs, a short walk away. Carbs are called for, and the croque monsieur hits the spot. It’s about another 5km walk back to the hotel, winding through the streets of Palermo.
A solid day’s walking, covering 21.76km and 30,475 steps. 153,300 steps for the week!
Friday, March 2, 2018
A long walk planned today to Puerto Madero, and perhaps as far as Costanera Sur Ecology Park, in Buenos Aires. A wander along the streets of Palermo leads me back to Avenida de la Libertador, which will ultimately take me close to Puerto Madero.
It’s another brilliantly sunny day in Buenos Aires, and Avenida de la Libertador is ideal walking due to the shade from the trees. The quality of street paving hasn’t changed at all over the years – it still pays to keep an eye on the footpath to avoid pot holes or raised pavers. The biggest changes that I see after 6 years away from Buenos Aires is the rise of fitness clubs such as Megatlon, and a move away from the dark décor in cafes towards more modern lighter colour schemes.
Around Puerto Madero, a veterinarian/pet boutique has opened, and a few of the cafes/restaurants are closed for renovations. Apartment buildings are still being built at a rapid rate, and the naval police are still actively patrolling the area. The old silos are still in a state of disrepair, providing some contrast to the modern architecture of the office buildings and apartments nearby.
Nearby, it appears that a light-rail or extension of the subway train line is being built to service the area along Avenida Eduardo Madero, which is causing traffic chaos in the area.
A short rest on a shady bench at Puerto Madero finds me joined by Juan from Buenos Aires, who wants to tell me about his unrequited love for a girl who has been toying with him for a few years now. He’s on his way to a job interview and hoping to run into his love interest, who has a long term boyfriend and it’s evident from his description that she has no intention of leaving him for Juan. Poor boy.
It’s a long walk back to the Legado Mitico, and all up it’s 23.55km and 32,980 steps by the time I arrive back there. It’s an early start of 2:45am to be ready to leave for the airport at 3am tomorrow morning!
