Lots of driving. The N2 meanders inland in South Africa from Hermanus on the way to Swellendam, through agricultural fields and vineyards. It’s threatening to rain by the time I reach Swellendam in the late afternoon. Accommodation for tonight is the lovely Bloomestate. Carla and Maarten, the owners of Bloomestate, have a welcoming committee called Scamper and Borat, two ridgebacks intent on mad play and running in the grounds. 30 minutes later, it’s raining heavily, so it’s time to make use of the B&B’s pervasive and free wi-fi to check emails.
The following day, Plettenberg Bay is the target destination. It’s another scenic inland drive to reach the city of George, where I stop for lunch. Even allowing for an hour rest stop in George (a city I didn’t warm to in 2012, and which I don’t like any better this time around), it takes 6 hours from leaving Swellendam to reach Plettenberg Bay. This small seaside town is built on the hillside above the bay of the same name.
Home for the next two nights is The Plettenberg, the third and last of the McGrath Collection hotels I’ll have stayed at on this trip. It’s another beautifully decorated Liz McGrath hotel, perfectly situated with unbeatable views over the nearby lagoon and the bay. I can see whales breaching far out in the bay.
After a long drive, the remedy is a walk down the beach near the lagoon as the tide is coming in. It’s a rough day at the beach – the waves have driven any surfers away, and the only beach goers are dog walkers.